South Korea
Introduction
For most of the 20th century, South Korea was hardly the Land of the Morning Calm, as it has been called historically. From the Japanese occupation to the Korean War to the economic crisis in the late 1990s, life there was mostly about calamity. But the country seems determined to leave its troubles in the old century. It has entered the new millennium with renewed optimism.
A very mountainous country (about 70% of its land is mountains), South Korea may look small on the map, but it is full of wonderful pockets of culture to explore. The capital, Seoul, is easily navigated without a guide—the subway system is well-marked and street signs are written in both English and Korean. Outside of the large cities, however, the countryside is best explored with a translator, since most people don’t speak English (although it is widely taught in schools) and most signs are only in Korean.
Korean culture is focused on balance and harmony—the yin and yang, the hot and cold, the male and female—and the country is best seen with this mindset. The frenzy of the city contrasted with the tranquility of the countryside will give you a solid introduction to one of the world’s oldest cultures.
See & Do
South Korea has literally thousands of picturesque and historic temples. It would be impossible for a casual visitor to see them all, but try to visit at least one. The vast majority of these temples were built in remote mountain areas, after the Joseon Dynasty proclaimed Confucianism the state religion and banished Buddhism from the cities in the 14th century. National parks have been established around many of the temples, offering hiking, Korean-style inns and mountain cuisine, which includes lots of wild vegetables. The wooden buildings of the temples themselves are usually painted with traditional, kaleidoscopelike designs called dancheong.
Other than the small temples in Seoul, an easily accessible temple complex is Beopjusa, a two-hour drive south of Seoul in Songnisan National Park. This temple houses an 80-ft/25-m standing Buddha. Even more atmospheric and remote is Haeinsa, one of the three Jewel Temples of Korea, in the mountains of Gayasan National Park. It houses a set of 13th-century wooden printing blocks for the entire canon of Buddhist scriptures. Other interesting temple complexes are Bulguksa, Jikjisa, Tongdosa (near Busan), Hwaomsa (near Namwon) and Songgwangsa (near Gwangju).
If possible, plan an overnight temple stay to cleanse your body, mind and spirit. You will be treated to a meal of mountain vegetables and rice, a tea ceremony and most likely invited to join in a morning or afternoon meditation with the monks. Accommodations will be basic, but clean, and the food simple and vegetarian. It will be a wonderful opportunity to glimpse into a spiritual life away from the hustle and bustle of modern living.
